Broken keys on a Monomachine

A recently purchased second-hand Monomachine is already sounding like the groove box of my dreams.

Unfortunately, two of the trig keys seem to be malfunctioning. Once pressed, they remain “on”, even when released. The only work around is to power cycle after any time I need to press them.

I opened up the box. Each trig key seems to have the following components:

A key top
A white “moving” plastic cylinder
A black container that connects to the board
A spring
A ball bearing

In the case of these two malfunctioning keys, both of the “black containers”— the housings that contain the trigger mechanism— do not fully fasten to the board. Correctly functioning keys “click” on both the north and south sides. My malfunctioning key housings only “click” on the north side, and then somewhat float freely (as a result of the spring’s resistance).

I have contacted Elektron support about this— hoping that this can be solved with a couple of replacement black key housings.

Concerned however that the breakage is on the board itself.

Is this an issue that has been encountered by any other users of either the MnM or the MD?

Thank you for your attention!

buy a backup :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

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Hello there, welcome to the forum and congratulations on a great synth :slightly_smiling_face:

It’s not uncommon that this happens in the older models. I just encountered the same problem with the record switch on my Octatrack.

Here are some options:

  • repairing the switches by gluing them with super glue. Not guaranteed to work (I tried this but failed)
  • order new switches from Elektron and replace them yourself (requires soldering equipment and skills)
  • order new switches and have someone replace them for you
  • send it to Elektron for repair

Check this thread for some more info:

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If the solder pad has lifted, you probably won’t know it until the components are removed. If you remove the PCB and look really closely underneath, you might be able to get an idea. If the solder is still on the board and its only the button on top that seems loose, it’s probably the button itself which has broken. If the solder that holds the legs of the button to the board have come loose and the solder is either missing underneath them or if it’s still attached to the legs and poking through the bottom holes but not mated to the PCB then the chance of damage at the solder pad is higher.

You’ll have to take it apart either way, but, if possible I’d get the button switches in hand first.

Good luck with your repair.

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Thanks everyone for your advice, thanks for the link to the other thread too! I searched for such a thread but that one didn’t come up (I wasn’t aware that Oct 1s had the same key housing issues).

I do think the issue can be resolved with the purchase of a new housing, or a touch of glue… the issue actually just seems to be the degradation of these rather fragile-looking key structures.

I will power up today and see if the key works as it should once the housing is held in place

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